It's the Dogs Life

Guest Post

Saint Lover — Wed, 02 May 2012 17:35:36 +0000

I was asked to write a guest post on the Rug Doctor Blog for National Pet Month – May. Head on over to their blog and check it out… LINKY

I feel like I’m moving up in the world

Nail Trimming

Saint Lover — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 23:44:34 +0000

Most dogs wear down their nails through activities such as daily walks on pavement or sidewalks. However dogs that spend most of their time indoors their nails can become extremely long. They can snag and damage carpets and upholstery. Excessively long nails can interfere with traction by preventing the foot pads from making contact with the ground and can actually interfere with movement resulting in changes to their posture alter the gait which causes pain. Overly long nails are also more susceptible to being torn off. Nails should be inspected regularly (I check weekly) and trimmed when needed (once or twice a month). My rule of thumb is “if I hear it click its time to nip”. Giant breed dogs will require a sharp, heavy duty nipper to clip through the thickness without pinching. They are normally not sold in stores but can be ordered from Amazon or other online pet supply companies. I bought my nippers from Amazon and have had amazingly good luck with them so far.

Another alternative (or in my case in addition) to nippers is a Dremel handheld rotary tool. When using a Dremel, make sure you are using the sanding drum attachment and carefully pull or trim any hair away from the nail you are working on. Carefully hold the tool against the nail with slight pressure, removing just a small amount if you cannot see the quick. Hold it lightly against the surface of the nail in 5-10 second increments to make sure the friction from the Dremel is not getting too warm and heating your dog’s toe, this is extremely painful (ladies that have had acrylic nails put on can attest to the pain when they hold it on your nail for too long. It may take a few sessions to acclimate your dog to the sound of a Dremel and some dogs may never tolerate it. I have had good success with a smaller, battery powered Dremel. It is quieter and does not heat up as quickly as the more powerful ones. The first few times I introduced the Dremel I touched their paws and nails with it NOT turned on. The next few times it was turned on but I touched the nails and pads with the body of the Dremel to acclimate them to the noise.

This graphic has been making the rounds on Facebook and other social media. I’ve seen it several times, but I’m not sure where it originated, sorry. It’s a great illustrated reference on cutting dog’s nails though.

Some people use a pen light up under the nail to illuminate where the quick ends. This works great on light nails but trimming dark nails can pose a bit of a challenge. It is obviously more difficult to trim a dark nails than light nails and there is a greater chance of nicking the quick. If you accidentally cut into the quick, the dog will feel a brief moment of pain and the nail will begin to bleed. Hold pressure over the end of the nail and the blood should clot in a few minutes. If bleeding persists, pack with styptic powder or use a styptic pencil. If you don’t have any on hand, flour or cornstarch will do as well.

When checking out the condition of your dogs nails, dont forget to check between their toes and at the pads on the bottoms of their paws. Red itchy and wet spots between the toes can alert you to allergies (both food and environmental) and injury. Grass seed seems to dig in between the toes and can be quite painful. Rough pad can be treated softened by using Musher’s Secret or Bag Balm. Originally developed for sledding dogs, Musher’s Secret is a dense barrier wax that is non-greasy and does not stain carpets or upholstry. It protects paws from even the most extreme elements from hot pavement and sand to snow. I use it on Brutus and Rufus’s paw pads when they get dry and flaky.

Is a Saint Bernard Right for You?

Saint Lover — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 11:34:35 +0000

Whitewater Saints

Are you considering buying a Saint Bernard? I think you’re choosing a wonderful breed!

Before you decide, ask yourself some questions. Can you resist buying the first cute puppy you see, on impulse? Are you prepared to make a commitment to a dog for the next 8-10 years or longer, even if you have life changes such as moving, new babies, divorce, or kids going off to college? Full responsibility for a dog is not a job for children; it requires a responsible adult, at least supervising, and should be carefully considered.

The commitment is not a small one; training a Saint Bernard to be a pleasant companion requires considerable time and patience. Saints don’t become well-behaved all by themselves! They require substantial attention and exercise throughout their lives; they are active and social animals and needs to be a part of his “human family”. Left to his own devices in the backyard, lonely, bored, uneducated in simple canine good manners and unused to being handled he will eventually be discarded as “unsuitable for the children”.

Saint Bernards SHED and DROOL! There is no such thing as a “DRY MOUTH” Saint Bernard. While some may drool less than others, all produce saliva in varying amounts. There are both shorthaired (smoothcoat) and longhaired (roughcoat) Saints. Both coat types are of equal value. And twice a year, usually in spring and autumn, they lose most of their coat to help them adjust to the changing seasons. Saint Bernards do require frequent brushing. Puppy chewing and digging can be destructive.

Do you have an appropriate environment for a puppy and are you willing to live with puppy mistakes? The Saint Bernard by nature does not require acres and acres to roam. They are not as active or nervous as some breeds and are content to remain close to home for the most part. Consequently an average fenced yard is adequate as long as there is some place for regular exercise and daily short walks are recommended.

Because of their size the Saint Bernard MUST be trained and this must be done early in life. Fortunately, Saint Bernards are eager to please and will begin responding to commands as soon as they understand what you want of them. Training a Saint Bernard can be a great joy. But a happy relaxed relationship with your Saint does not happen automatically. You must teach him a few simple rules of behavior so that he respects you and develops into a well mannered, obedient family member who is a pleasure to both you and your neighbors. Puppy pre-schools and obedience classes are excellent for the first time dog owner to learn how to get the dog to respond to his wishes.

Are you willing to spend the money it takes to provide appropriate care, including quality food and supplies, annual vaccines, heartworm testing and preventative, and spaying or neutering? Are you willing to wait for the right puppy from the responsible breeder of your choice? Remember, finding the best puppy for you is well worth the wait.

Buy a well-bred dog from a responsible breeder. Responsible breeders take care to produce healthy Saint Bernards with good temperaments. Don’t bargain-hunt and don’t buy a puppy from a pet store; often those puppies come from poor breeding, may have been kept in poor conditions with inadequate socialization, and are sometimes more expensive than puppies purchased from a responsible breeder. Responsible breeders do all they can to avoid producing serious problems, including aggressive or shy temperaments, hereditary health defects such as hip or elbow dysplasia. Remember that “AKC papers” are not an indication of quality in the dog. They only mean that the dog’s parents were AKC registered. Never buy a Saint Bernard sight unseen or over the internet – NEVER!!

Is a puppy really the right dog for me?

My Boys came to me at 19 months.

If you don’t have the time or facilities for socializing, house training, and obedience training a puppy, it’s possible that an older dog would be a better choice. Mature Saint Bernards usually adapt very well to new homes and can form very deep bonds. You can investigate Saint Bernard rescue or find a responsible breeder who may have an older dog to place in a new home.

How do I know a breeder is responsible?

Lanbern Saint Bernards

Look for a breeder who:

Is knowledgeable about the breed. Most responsible breeders continually test the results of their breeding programs by participating in conformation shows, obedience trials, rally trials, or weight pulling.
Is knowledgeable about raising puppies. Even puppies with the best hereditary temperaments can exhibit behavioral problems if they are not socialized sufficiently or if they are removed from their dam and littermates before seven weeks of age. Socialization done by the breeder should include ensuring that each pup receives frequent human attention, is handled frequently, and is exposed to a wide variety of noises and experiences.
Takes steps to keep the puppies as healthy as possible. Before puppies go to their new homes, they should have been wormed or checked for worms, and should have received their first shots.
Takes steps to prevent occurrence of hereditary defects in the puppies. Both parents should have hip clearances from at least one of the following registries: OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals), PennHip, Wind-Morgan, or a foreign joint registry. Many breeders are checking parents for elbow defects as well as hips. Be sure to ask about health clearances; responsible breeders will be happy to tell you about them and will honestly discuss problems that might occur in the parents’ lines. Avoid breeders that tell you their dogs don’t need health clearances because they’ve never had a problem, or those who tell you that their ”vet said the dog was ok.” Remember that clearances on the parents don’t guarantee that the puppies will be free of problems, but your chances of buying a healthy puppy are greatly improved if the parents have been cleared.

Health problems that are common among Saint Bernards are Hip or Elbow Dysplasia, Entropian, Ectropian, Bone Cancer and Epilepsy.

Hip Dysplasia

Hip Dysplasia is by definition an ill-fitting hip. This can be caused by having shallow sockets, abnormal heads and necks of the femur and from excessively loose ligaments. Hip Dysplasia is a polygenetic inherited condition that is affected by environmental influences such as weight, diet and exercise, which can interact to cause rapid wear and tear of the hip joint leading to arthritic change.

Hip Dysplasia is a definite problem in Saint Bernards that needs to be assessed and taken into account before heavily working, exercising or breeding with an animal. Hip Dysplasia is a complex genetic and environmental problem but should be kept in its proper perspective relative to the breed as a whole. It is one genetic problem, not the only one.

Elbow Dysplasia

Elbow disease is the preferred term to be used when talking about elbow problems in growing dogs. Unfortunately “elbow dysplasia” was the name given to the condition of ununited anconeal process and this term is closely linked in this way in the minds of most veterinarians and some dog breeders.

Elbow disease is a general term to denote joint problems in growing dogs and it includes ununited anconeal process (UAP), fragmented medial coronoid process (FCP) and osteochondrosis of the medial condyle of the humerus (OCD). These are the three most important conditions although there are a number of uncommon conditions included in the term.

Ectropian

Ectropian (the opposite of entropian) occurs when the lower eyelids roll away from the eyeball. Ectropian is common in breeds with loose facial skin. As the eyeball is insufficiently protected it is open to infection. Surgery is available to correct this problem.

Entropian

Entropian (the opposite of ectropian) is a condition in which the eyelids turn inwards causing the dog’s eyelashes to rub against the cornea. This eventually causes ulcers to form and is extremely painful for the dog and if not treated can lead to blindness. There is surgery available to correct this problem but as some breeds are more prone to it than others it is best not to breed individual dogs that develop this condition.

Does not breed bitches every time they come in season. This is extremely hard on the bitch and may indicate that profit is the breeder’s primary motive.
Chooses breedings carefully. Ask why the particular sire was chosen. The answer should be thoughtful and knowledgeable. Answers such as “because he lived close to me” or “because he’s such a cute dog” generally don’t indicate a breeding that is being done to produce puppies that are better than their parents (the goal of every responsible breeder). One indication of a quality breeding is if the majority of dogs in the first few generations are titled (CH, OTCH, FC, CD, JH, WC and so on, before or after the dogs’ names). If the titles only appear generations back or if there are only a few in the entire pedigree, they don’t mean much.
Lets you meet the parents of the puppies. Bitches may be sent long-distance to stud dogs, but the breeder should be able to show you photographs of the sire and answer questions about him.
Evaluates puppy temperaments and helps you choose the puppy that is best suited to your lifestyle. A very active puppy won’t do well in a sedate environment, and a quiet puppy may be overwhelmed in an active household with noisy children. Remember that most breedings are done so the breeder can choose a puppy to carry on his or her own lines, so you may have to wait until this choice is made when the pups are 6-7 weeks old. After that, the breeder can help you decide which pup would be most suitable for you. The breeder has spent extensive time with the litter and knows the puppies best, so their advice is important.
Will be willing to take the dog back at any time if you cannot keep it. Responsible breeders do NOT want their puppies to end up in an animal shelter or in a less-than-ideal home.
Is someone you feel comfortable with. You may not be an expert on Saint Bernards, but you do know about people. Use your intuition. The breeder should be available for the life of the dog to answer questions, so this could be a long-term relationship. If you don’t trust the person, don’t buy a dog from them.
Will provide appropriate documentation with the puppy, including registration papers, pedigree, and a health record.
Is concerned about your future plans for the puppy, particularly whether you’re thinking of breeding the dog. Many responsible breeders sell pet-quality animals with mandatory spay/neuter contracts and/or Limited Registration (meaning that offspring of the dog cannot be registered). This is a good indication that the breeder cares enough about the breed to ensure that only the very best representatives are bred. Some breeders may be willing to change the Limited Registration to a Full Registration if you present the dog to them after maturity, having had all its health clearances. Then, if the breeder thinks the dog is of good quality and temperament, they may change the registration and help you with the selection of a good stud dog. Only the dog’s breeder can make this change.

How do I find a responsible breeder?

First, educate yourself. Read books on the breed. Attend dog shows or obedience trials, and talk to the Saint Bernard exhibitors. Be willing to spend some time on the phone, talking to breeders, and looking for referrals. Most responsible breeders will have a list of puppy buyers before they do a breeding, and usually don’t have to advertise in the newspaper. Please remember that the great majority of Saint Bernard breeders are hobby breeders. They are not “in business,” breeding is not their profession, and very few of them make money on their dogs. It’s a labor of love for the breed. Please give them the courtesy you’d give to your own friends and neighbors. You may not find a breeder that satisfies all these criteria, but these guidelines should be helpful in finding the best puppy for you and your situation.

How “kid and family friendly” is the Saint Bernard?

Fairview Saint Bernards

Puppies must be taught not to use their mouth on humans – even in play. They must be taught to tolerate having their ears, mouth, feet and tail handled and to allow food to be taken from their mouth. All these experiences will help ensure that the puppy is tolerant of any children who perform these actions. Teaching the puppy to sit before being patted will ensure that the dog does not jump for attention and knock children down. Although many dogs will tolerate almost any behavior from children they should not be expected to do so. Children who are not taught that it is very wrong to hit, kick, pinch or torment their own dog may one day meet a dog who is not so tolerant. Children should be seated before picking up a puppy, as a squirming puppy will usually be dropped.

A “safe” area should be provided where the puppy can go for rest and children should be told that they must not disturb him. Over-tired children and dogs both get cranky!

It is part of good parenting to supervise all activities of babies and small children and their time with the family dog should be no exception until parents are confident that both the child and dog are of an age where they can understand how to play gently and reliably together.There are a few basic rules parents should instill in their children. Children should be taught not to run up to strange dogs but to ask the owner’s permission to pat the dog. They should be taught not to hug strange dogs or to reach over the dog’s head to pat it on top of the head. If a dog is uneasy or tired of playing with children and tries to get away from them they must not follow it.

Dog owners should observe the following guidelines with visiting children. Dogs who are not used to children may be uneasy with their movements and sounds. If a dog is uneasy with visiting children he is better secured in a favorite area where the children cannot go to him. Don’t try to force your dog to allow a child to pat or play with it.

Suggested Reading; The Art of Raising a Puppy by The Monks of New Skete and How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Rutherford and Neil.

Foto Friday

Saint Lover — Fri, 03 Feb 2012 11:50:59 +0000

Puxatany Phil saw his shadow yesterday so 6 more weeks of winter. Hmmmm that rodent can stay in his warm den next year because I’m not likeing what I’m hearing. Rufus however was cool as a cucumber in his German Oktoberfest hat. Guten tag!

Gnawin’ Forever Treats

Saint Lover — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 02:04:24 +0000

Ainsworth Pet Nutrition sent me samples of the Gnawin’ Forever chew treat and a couple refill insert from (available exclusively from) Pet Food Direct to do a review on. I held on to them to use as their b-day pressies. Tonight I opened them to give it a try. They have an entertaining animated commercial on their youtube page with Chompers the bull dog.

Its really a rather ingenious toy that boasts “upto two hours of chew time”. Conservatively, I would say Rufus had it devoured in less than 15 minutes. Clearly Rufus’s mouth is alot bigger than Chompers lol. I was a little disappointed that it took him such a short time to finish it off, but this is the same dog that can down a large Busy Bone or Jumbone in less than 5 minutes. Had he not been able to get the whole thing in his mouth and slobber all over it, it probably would have lasted much longer. A smaller breed dog or one that is less aggressive of a chewer would certainly get significantly more time out of it.

The rubber outer housing twists apart and a chew insert (which smells incredible to the dogs, they wouldn’t leave me alone while I was trying to open the package) can be inserted on the inner peg. There is a small space between the insert and the post so it spins around much to the delight and frustration to the dog. You should have seen him trying to figure out how to get ahold of the chew treat inside.

I handed it to Brutus first, but he wasn’t quite sure what to do with it so I gave it to Rufus and he figured it out in no time flat. He absolutely LOVED it. In fact he loved it so much he licked the carpet clean well after it was finished and wouldnt let any of the other dogs have it. He usually isnt possessive of his toys so this one really struck a chord with him. Look at the intensity…

After Rufus finished his off, I refilled it and gave it back to Brutus and he knew exactly what to do with it after watching his brother. I set the stop watch on him to see how long it took him to devour it and it took even less time. He had the whole thing in his mouth and had broken off the first hunk of it in less than 60 seconds. The entire thing, save some crumbs, was gone in under seven minutes and thirty seconds.

Rufus then stole the empty rubber dumbbell housing back and laid on his pillow and licked the crumbs that were left behind in the grooves for another hour plus… He even tried to take it outside with him when he went to pee for fear one of the other dogs would take it.

They really enjoyed it though and were certainly in blissful delight while they had a go at it. The housing is available exclusively at petfooddirect.com for $26.99 and comes with 3 inserts, each additional two insert pack is $9.99. After the initial investment of the housing, it is comparable in price to a large Jumbone or large Busy Bone which it did outlast and they found it a lot more enjoyable. My only suggestion would be for them to make a BIGGER one for giant breed dogs.

Rufus does have a bit of a sensitive stomach and so far so good… no gas or otherwise, yet. And yes, that’s Toddlers in Tiara’s you hear in the background. We (ok, me) got sucked into an all day marathon… don’t judge. The show is like a train wreck you just cant look away from.

***EDITED TO ADD*** It has been over 24 hours and zero gas and all digestive processes were normal! So they get my sensitive tummy stamp of approval! Rufus also carried it to bed last night and hasnt let it out of his sight. I do believe a standing order for refills needs be made. He’s never shown such interest in a toy before.

Happy 8th Birthday Brutus and Rufus

Saint Lover — Sun, 15 Jan 2012 03:52:04 +0000

Its so hard to believe the boys are now 8 year old seniors. Although they are starting to slow down, they are still in pretty good shape. They have very little grey on their faces, they still run around and wrestle with each other like pups. They enjoy chewing bones and playing with their toys.

Their birthday marks the passage of time and reflection on all the good times I have had with them. I try not to make it too big of a deal because I know that there won’t be many more birthdays for them. The average life span (depending on what source you look at) is usually only 8-10 years. It makes me sad that we get such a short time with our big guys compared to other breeds. But I wouldn’t trade a single day with them for the world. They have made me so happy and in the immortal words of Jerry Maguire… “You (Brutus and Rufus) complete me!”

Happy Birthday Boys!

I got their birthday cake from Three Dogs Bakery again. Its a peanutbutter cake with peanutbutter cream cheese frosting and a “crowd” favorite.

Photo Friday

Saint Lover — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 02:10:05 +0000

Treatment and Control of Fleas

Saint Lover — Thu, 22 Dec 2011 17:34:02 +0000

Well, I have finally found the culprit to Brutus and Rufus’s itching and Rufus’s nasty under tail hotspot… Flea Dermatitis (aka flea bite hypersensitivity. It is the most common dermatologic disease of domestic dogs in the US) OMG they have fleas! I have never had fleas, ever, in the 10+ years of owning dogs and I saw one on Rufus’s rump!!! Like many Americans this year I have fallen victim to the evolution of the super flea. I normally don’t put the monthly Frontline Plus treatments on in the winter moths because its cold here in Ohio. But we have had a very wet and warmer than usual fall which is perfect for breeding the little buggers and the poor boys managed to pick up fleas somewhere, Im pretty sure I know from where too grrrrrr! I guess I will be treating monthly year round from here on out!

Fleas are the most common ectoparasite (An organism that lives on the outer surface of another organism, its host, and which does not contribute to the survival of the host) in dogs and cats. They spread intestinal parasites, as well as causing painful dermatitis, skin infections and “hot spots”. The fleas that you see on your dog represent less than 1% of the flea population in your home – the rest are growing and breeding in the environment (that means your carpets, furniture, bedding – GROSS). Fleas spend the majority of their life cycle in the enviornment, only jumping on your dog or for that matter you, to take in a meal. By the time you dog shows symptoms of fleas, the problem isnt the fleas you can see… its the vast numbers you cant!

Preventing flea infestation is much easier than treating one. It is recommended that flea preventions such as Frontline Plus, K-9 Advantix II, Interceptor, Program, Advantage, Revolution, Sentinel or Comfortis (FYI flea collars DONT WORK) be used monthly from April to November. Dogs with flea allergies (like Rufus) or households that have experienced a flea infestation over the winter months should treat all year round. Waiting til you see fleas to begin using a preventative risks an infestation on your pet and in your home. An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure!

So… now you are coming to grips that there is a bigger problem than you had realized, what next? How do you get rid of them?

How to Treat Your Dog

I used Frontline Plus, it is a topical flea and tick treatment as well as preventative for both cats and dogs over 8 weeks.

Frontline Plus kills 100% of fleas on the dog within 12 hours of application.
Long lasting: continues to kill fleas and ticks all month long.
Approved for use on puppies and kittens 8 weeks of age and older and on breeding, pregnant or lactating cats and dogs.
Waterproof: effective even after swimming, bathing and grooming.

It comes in multiple sizes for dosing. Make sure you choose the one closest to your dogs weight for proper coverage. The largest size covers up to 132 pounds and since my dogs are much larger than that, I combine two vials – 1 of the 89-132 vials AND 1 of the 23-44 vials for my saints to make sure they have enough of the active ingredient to be effective. Apply directly to dry skin on the back between the shoulder blades. It is important to apply to dry skin and allow the product to completely dry for 24 hours before allowing them access to swimming or bathing.

Fleas and ticks do not have to bite your pet for Frontline to work. Frontline kill fleas and ticks if they simply come into contact with your pet’s coat. The fleas will die within 12 hours of contact with your treated pet, and ticks will die within 48 hours.

Capstar is an orally administered tablet that provides fast flea relief and starts working within 30 minutes. A single dose of should kill the adult fleas on your pet. If your pet get reinfested, it is safe to give another dose as often as once per day. They claim “you will literally see fleas falling off your pet”. I’m not so sure about that… but hey, sounds good.

Make sure you treat all infested pets in the household. Fleas can reproduce on untreated pets and allow infestations to persist. I used both Frontline Plus AND Capstar to try to nip any issue in the bud. Their itching went into overdrive for a few hours. Frontline will make fleas hyper-excited, causing them to become more frenzied and head to the “surface of the coat” before dying, making them more visible to you and can causing significant itching in dogs that are sensitive to fleas.

How to Treat Your Home

Treating the environment is one of the most effective ways to reduce the number of fleas you see on your dog. House treatment sprays that contain ingredients to kill adult fleas and insect growth regulators are the most effective. They break the flea life cycle by preventing flea eggs from hatching. My vet recommended Siphotrol Plus II Area Treatment.
Siphotorl Plus II:

100% Knock Down For Adult Fleas In 10 Minutes
Kills Both Adult And Immature Fleas & Ticks
Safe for humans and animals as soon as it dries
Treats 2,000 Square Feet
Leaves No Lingering Odor, No Stains, No Sticky Mess
Prevents Reinfestation And Flea Build-up For 30 Weeks
Easy To Apply Water-based Aerosol

First, vacuum thoroughly, including rugs and under furniture. The vibrations from the vacuum cleaner encourages the flea eggs to hatch, (adults = easier to kill you my dearies). Remove the contents of your canister or you bag outside in to an outside dumpster or trash can. Spray the new bag or your canister lightly with your treatment spray (this will stun/kill the live fleas you vacuum up – a cheap flea collar in the bag or canister will also work). Launder all bedding, yours too if you dog gets on the bed, to remove any fleas or juvenile life stages. Make sure you cover or preferably move any aquariums, birds or reptiles from the area while spraying.

Spray all the areas of your house with a light mist, soaking. If you miss an area, the fleas will move to the unsprayed area and set up shop there. Even hardwoods and linoleum floors should be treated. It is safe to spray furniture and pet bedding as long as the spray is dry before humans or pets use them. Always check for color fastness before spraying. Most fabrics are safe from coloring/decoloring but its always better to be safe than sorry.

Wait 24 hours before vacuuming then vacuum daily for at least 14 days. Make sure you dispose of the bag OUTDOORS and treat the replacement bag with your Siphotrol Plus II spray. If you are treating a flea infestation, repeat treatments in the house every 14 days until you see no fleas on your dog for 2-3 weeks. Retreating your house is very important in preventing re-infestation of the house from the pupal stage fleas that sprays can not kill. The little blood suckers can lie dormant in the environment for as long as s-i-x months!!!

Sprays are more effective than bombs or foggers. You will need at least one fogger per room The mist from the bomb will go straight up, mushroom out a bit then fall straight down. The chemicals wont travel through the walls, around corners nor will it make it up under furniture.

I’ve seen advertisements for ultrasonic pest repellers but haven’t gotten any feedback whether they actually work.

One final, yet disgusting, note… Fleas can carry Dipylidium caninum, a particular species of tapeworm must use the flea as an intermediate host in its own life cycle. Egg packets deposited by the adult tapeworm are shed into the environment where they are consumed by the flea larvae. If a pet ingests an adult flea that consumed the tapeworm egg pack as a larvae, the tapeworm parasite is passed on. Although tapeworm in pets usually doesn’t cause serious disease, it is particularly annoying to pet owners. Tapeworms are easily detected by the pet owner. Small rice-like objects are seen clinging to the hind end of the animal near the base of the tail. In addition, people can become infested if they inadvertently ingest infected fleas.

The 12 Dogs of Christmas

Saint Lover — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 03:17:35 +0000

Hope your holiday season is looking bright!

This is absolutely hilarious! Brought to you by (and reproduced with permission) Pets365.co.uk. Check out their shop for some amazing deals on pet products in the UK.

12 dogs of Christmas graphic produced by Pet365 – a UK stockist of brands like Waifs and Strays & Hamish McBeth.

Mr Chewy Auto-Delivery is AWESOME

Saint Lover — Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:51:13 +0000

About a month ago I posted about how awesome it was that Mr. Chewy delivering my dog food directly to the door (read article here) and as you may remember I signed up for auto-delivery. This month’s shipment is the first of the “reoccurring” auto-delivery. It came to my door without a hitch! No bugs to work out, no missed shipping, no billing problems, nothing! A few days before it was due to ship I received an email reminding me it was going to ship in a few days and then a follow up letting me know it had shipped, with my tracking numbers for UPS. One less thing to worry about!

Thank you Mr Chewy ?!!!

Now if they would just start carrying our favorite California Naturals treats, which I believe should be soon.